“It’s a dumb business model,” AP says one morning when I’m trying to find my keys
“It’s a fucking restaurant,” I snap. In ten minutes, I will be late, and it is a twelve-minute shuffle to work.
“I just think you guys are screwed,” he says. I’ve learned a few things in the months I have consumed AP’s alcohol and kicked him out of his own bed because he snores. Rule Number One: get it in before the fifth shot, otherwise he won’t get it up. Rule Number Two: If you want him to shut up, let him watch The Wolf of Wall Street. Rule Number Three: Do not talk about your work with him.
“Restaurants are risky business endeavors.” The cook is already on site and has texted me that she can’t find the key to the walk-in. I don’t have the time to rehash my life choices with AP, who I’m pretty sure has never had to pick the dirt from under his fingernails or unclog a commercial dishwasher
“It’s a dumb business model,” he repeats himself as I slip through his front door and run down the stairs. A blast of eight am air smacks me in the face as I join everyone else running late to the office. I’d left work at one in the morning. I went to bed at five. I have a twelve hour shift ahead of me. I will have to brush my teeth in the bathroom at work when I arrive. I’ve planned ahead for this and keep toiletries in my workbag. There’s a pair of clean underwear stuffed in there with travel sized deodorant, a foldable toothbrush, and a small tube of Crest. A back up shirt is tucked into the laptop compartment.
I spend fewer nights at home and wake up more often to the sun peeling through AP’s thin bedroom curtains. I’ve been doing this for a few months, and the broken sleep schedule is wearing on me. The skin under my eyes is blue and saggy. I’m sallow and my cheeks are breaking out. My hairline is starting to pull back. I notice these things as I pull on the clean shirt and brush my teeth. I wonder if it will always be like this, I think while I steep my fourth French press and beg the cook for an omelet. She has already administered San Pellegrino with lime juice and salt to quell my stomach flips, and she is near done with my early morning bullshit. But by mid-November, we are used to my routine
I have no AGM, there are twelve employees, and four of them have no idea what they’re doing. My prior management experience is nonexistent, my ascent from floor manager to General Manager too fast, and I am scrambling to make up for it. I accept this as fact of the career path I chose. You said yes, I remind myself when I start to crack. You said yes, I remind myself after I tell the prep cook that no, you can’t just leave the meat slicer out with bits of ham still coiled around the blade, and yes, you absolutely must store the chicken on the bottom shelf of the walk-in
There is staff training. Staff mediation. There are prep shifts, line shifts. Occasionally, I am an electrician. I still bartend. When my dish person can’t get childcare, I clean the plates. There is inventory. Receipt paper and laminating packets to buy. We have five separate accounts for our beverage program, four for food, a Webstaraunt and an Amazon Business account. Dishtowels. Soup spoons. Butane torches for the Crème Brûlée. There are ten checklists that must be followed, although first I must finish writing them. But I have never worked in a kitchen before, so I’m forgetting things like wax paper and white wine vinegar. There isn’t enough time to properly train me, I just sort of have to learn on the fly, and I do not know what the fuck I am doing.
I am responsible for three folders of Excel spreadsheets. “What the fuck are these?!” I ask, because I have a master’s degree in Literature and took a singular math class in undergrad called Mathematical Thinking. I learned about Fibonacci and made jewelry as a final project. Ten years later, attempting to calculate an end of year total cost of goods sold was frustrating for everyone involved. In between admin hours and supervising the floor, I try not to bungle other people’s livelihoods, and I’m a little shocked that my kitchen staff hasn’t walked out yet. I try, at least. I show up early every day and I stay late, trying to convince all of us that I am worthy. And then, I overcompensate for having limited personal time by using it poorly.
I have begun drinking heavily again, and I am back to buying cigarettes. At work, in the quiet hours between lunch and dinner I sneak out for walks along the pier. My lighter and I fight against the wind, which thankfully smokes more of my cigarette than I do. I wonder if it will always be like this, I think as I dodge rain puddles and seagull shit. My hair flies up in my cigarette and singes. It stinks as I sneak back inside, take a swill from the small bottle of mouthwash I keep, and wash my hands. I pick off the burnt dead ends of my hair.
AP texts me when I’m sitting in front of my laptop trying to finish next week’s schedule.
Was last night pleasurable for you? my phone reads, and I scoff. There is an hour gap between when my daytime cook has to leave for his second job and when my nighttime cook can arrive from her first. On Thursday, I will be the kitchen from four to five.
Until you pushed me off the couch in your sleep, I text back. The bartender tries to peek over my shoulder at the schedule. I hate when staff does this before I publish it. I almost always have to make a last-minute change and while I warn them not to start planning their week based off of a draft, they almost always do. I tell him there is a guest walking up to the bar.
I meant the sex part, AP texts. The bartender is back, this time with a question about wine. We have spent hours talking about words like body and tannin. We have tasted Bordeaux blends and single varietals. We have practiced opening and pouring. We scoured the wine list and ran fucking drills on it. He still doesn’t know which red is the lightest
“Well then why don’t you let the nice lady sample both?” I ask when the bartender informs me that our guest in the Canada Goose coat would like to know about the Pinot and the Cotes Du Rhone
Yeah that part was fun, I respond to AP, though I’m not sure why I need to stroke his ego.
Dinner hours creak by, or perhaps that is just my knees, springing back and forth between the bartender with two months experience and a line cook who just got weeded. By eleven, I am counting the minutes until close. I start suggesting things my staff can do so we aren’t mobbed with dirty glassware and dishes at the end of the shift. I do not want to spend an hour closing. I want to take off my bra. The bartender sighs and pulls out a polishing rag, and I take a swig of iced coffee that I forgot about two hours ago.
I miss you someone I care about texts me. I read it and my shoulders drop while I void a misfired crepe on the POS. I miss you too, I think. But I only have the two hands, and they are at work, so I can’t text back.
I haven’t seen him in weeks. The last time I could, I sat on his couch and did a bad job of not checking my phone. Branding emails. Payroll. Where are the To Go boxes?
“Isn’t it your day off?” he whispered, looking at me from under his eyelashes. He tried to be patient. He held space for my long work rants, the same complaints every single time. He fiddled with an amp when I stopped paying attention to our conversation about film directors and Prince rereleases. There was a time when I enjoyed those talks, even if I felt the film studies stuff to be pretentious, and I couldn’t always hear the difference between separate studio recordings of the same single.
“Yeah I guess it doesn’t crackle,” my voice trailed off.
I used to see him once a week, now it’s close to once a month. I have to cancel dates, sometimes right in the middle of them. The promotion makes it hard to relate to me, he says. He’d met me as a wayward bartender who made her tips and spent them badly, and suddenly I had this weight of responsibility that was foreign to us both.
“It has been difficult to see what this job has done to you.” I take offense to this, but he says he means my unavailability. The complete enrapture, consumption of self into a career.
“I’m just trying to hold it all together,” I say. I know that I can’t do that, but I won’t admit it, and I don’t forgive myself when it all starts to fall apart. I know he thinks he is losing me, and perhaps he is. But I don’t feel like I have a choice.
Sixty percent of restaurants fail within their first year. A combination of high overhead, high payroll, and nonexistent profit margins make it near impossible to pull off. You’re lucky to break even on your investment in the first three years. Luckier still if you turn a profit in the first five. Everything is done at breakneck speed. The stakes are not giving people food poisoning. There’s a balance between having fun and getting so fucked up that you flip your car, and it’s my job to strike it. The staff turnover rate is around 70% and steadily increases. It costs restaurants upwards of $150,000 a year to bleed employees. Not that we aren’t complicit in these rates, what with the rampant sexual harassment, stagnant wages, preying on undocumented workers, and relying on the tipping standard. These are the things I think about when I try not to schedule clopens, when my payroll is 70% of my revenue, and when I put myself on a double if it means saving someone else from their eighth shift in a row.
There is no glamor here. Just a lot of Ecolab chemicals and long hours.
I just wanted you to know I’m thinking about you, the person I care about texts after an hour of no response from me. Oh, shit I forgot, I think as I turn up the lights to signal to the late-night drunks that the hour of departure is upon them. And then, my phone rings. My finger hovers over the answer button. You really need sleep, I tell myself. But I answer anyway.
“Are you coming over tonight?” AP asks without saying hello.
“I have work tomorrow.”
“So?” We play this game every week. I tell him all the reasons that I should not go to his apartment to drink vodka and take off my clothes, and he convinces me of all the reasons why I should. He usually wins.
“It’ll be fun. You need to unwind. You sound stressed.”
“That’s just my voice.”
“Whatever. Just text me when you’re here.” He hangs up. He knows it is a ten-minute walk after I close, and if I’m lucky one of his neighbors will let me in so I don’t have to buzz his unit. He also knows I’ve had too much coffee to fall asleep and that I will show up.
At the end of the night I am leaning against the counter waiting for the dishwasher to grab her things out of the pantry so I can finally lock everything and leave, and I remember the text message.
I’m thinking about you, too, I finally respond when AP closes his front door behind me.



